CPS Failure!

What happened?! My truck died!

Who knows why, but the Ford 7.3 liter Powerstroke Motor *EATS* CPS's. What is a CPS? Its short
for Camshaft Position Sensor. Ford calls it a Synchronizer or CMP sensor. International
calls it a CAMP sensor. Since a diesel doesnt have an ignition system so to speak, it
needs a way to verify that the motor is turning.
It does this by counting revolutions of the camshaft, and relaying that info back to the
computer that all is well, keep dumping in fuel!

When the CPS goes bad (naughty naughty), the computer thinks there is a problem and basically
shuts the truck off. It could be intermittent (runs fine at cruise, but wont idle) or
or it could be absolute. (truck just up and died! no reason!) There is no timeline, no
precursor, no warning. You could go 100k miles, or 10k miles between failures.

One sign of a failed CPS is your Tach will not move while cranking the engine over.
This is on long extended cranking. Short cranking, on a good CPS will not register either
If you have an AIC (APCM) installed, it may not registered RPM's either. The Tach gets its
reference from the CPS sensor and if its not sending a signal, no tach.

UPDATE!
Further reports from the field.
Before blaming your CPS for killing your truck, you should check the following:

ICP connector. Poor connections at the ICP can cause a stall like the CPS
Batteries: Weak batteries will crank the truck, but may not start it.
HPOP: Check your HPOP reservoir to make sure it has oil in it
CHIP: If your truck has a chip, remove it and clean the contacts

ANOTHER UPDATE!
Those of you with a 2002 or newer truck, the "No TACH Movement During Cranking" troubleshooting trick
probably wont work for you. Ford changed how the TACH gets its signal to a computer controller
and so it does not move AT ALL until the truck is fully running. However, if the truck was
running and the TACH falls to zero, start looking into the CPS.

First things first, if you havnt lost a CPS yet, go buy one and put it in your glovebox.
Ford wants upwards of 175-200 bux for one. However, the Powerstroke is the same engine
as the International T-444-E engine and you can order a CPS from them for half the cost.
You can also try E-bay if your not in a hurry.

PART NUMBERS

FORD Part Numbers:

F7TZ-12K073-A for 1997 to 2003 7.3

F6TZ-12K073-A for 1994-1996 7.3

Expect to pay close to 200 Dollars if buying from Ford

F7TZ-12K073-B Updated sensor as of May 1st 2007. Lists for about 25 bucks!!!! 97+ 7.3's

International goes by Serial number:
Engine Serial # 375548 and below is part# 1821720-C99 (mid 97 and older)
Engine Serial # 375549 and up is part # 1825899-C93 (Mid 97 and newer)

DT466E “The BLUE CPS” part # is 1807339C92 (see note below “Black vs Blue”)

Expect to pay between 90 and 110 dollars from IH

NAPA:
ECHCSS512 1994-1996?

ECHCSS1103 1997-2003?

NAPAONLINE shows around 200 dollars

UPDATE!

The above serial numbers are based on MODEL YEAR of the truck, as such, the TRUE date
of engine manufacture would be mid-96. Also, ANY CPS will work in an emergency. The
difference has to do with what type of metal was used in the wiring harness of the connectors.
Over time, dissimilar metals could corrode and create electrical problems again.
If your OLD CPS has any shims/spacers, you should discard them. The NEW CPS does not
need them. SHIMS were used on the older engines to compensate for camshaft endplay

BLACK vs BLUE?!

It has been discovered that the CPS from the DT466E International motor (also known

as “The Blue CPS”) will fit our 7.3 powerstroke motors. Since that discovery, MUCH debate

has raged over its effectiveness. I wont get into the gory details, but bottom line is, in a pinch,

the BLUE CPS WILL WORK to get your truck off the side of the road. But in the long run, your

better off with the correct black CPS using the part numbers above.

WELL, LETS FIX IT!

To fix it, your going to need a 10mm wrench (or socket with a short 3" extension, experiment at
home to find the exact tool you think you will need if stranded on the side of the road,
at night, in the cold and rain). A flathead screwdriver, and a replacement CPS.

Ideally, you should use a 6-point tool, as the CPS bolt is known for rounding off.

Locate the CPS. It is on the passenger side of the engine block. Accessible from under
the truck, and located about the 10 o'clock position behind the crankshaft front pulley.
Reach up and unplug the wiring harness, remove the 10mm bolt, and GENTLY pry the bad CPS
out with the flat screwdriver. Click picture for location detail.

UPDATE!
A select few of you may find an ALTERNATOR while looking under your truck for your CPS.
This is part of the Ambulance Package, dual alternators. Your CPS may not be as easy to
see or get too, but its still in the same place.

Apply a little oil to the sensor O-ring and re-install opposite of removal and you should have a running truck!

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has launched a Recall Investigation
against Ford and the CPS failure problem. If you have a CPS failure, and the above
instructions fix your problem, please visit the NHTSA website and fill out the complaint
form. Keep your broken CPS handy, as they may wish to have it as a sample.
Click Here: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
NHTSA Action #: PE06011

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